by Julie Davidson

Summer 2009 Volunteer

In the morning when we wake up early for teaching it is one of the most peaceful times in the camp. The heat is bearable and it is quiet. From my window I can see that even the cats are still sleeping, basking in the early morning sun from the corrugated tin roofs.

Soon the camp begins to stir. The UNRWA garbage collectors are making their rounds, collecting trash from the buckets in front of each house. Wearing the bright blue uniforms and pushing their carts they are unmistakable. While they have a job I wouldn’t wish on anyone, they always offer a big smile as we pass. The coffee makers are ready early, clinking together metal cups to ensure that people are aware of their location, just in case the strong smell of Arabic coffee isn’t enough. Arabic pies, pronounced manaeesh, are being made all around the camp. Any quiet morning another recognizable sound is the machines of the manaoushe shops flattening the dough into small round circles, which will be topped with cheese and thyme, a common breakfast for the students and workers on their way out of  the camp.

Soon the women begin to leave their houses. They must walk their young children to school and do the daily grocery shopping- Palestinians always eat fresh food. After these tasks are complete the will commence their cleaning routine. Although the infrastructure and conditions in the camp are less than hygienic, the Palestinian women are meticulous in their cleaning. They use large squeegees to clean the floors, stairs and areas in front of their houses, splashing water around in their bare feet. Many still do their laundry by hand, wringing out their families’ clothes with their bare hands and hanging them from the roof or window to dry. Sometimes families have upwards of 10 children, this cannot be an easy task.

The workers are also out in full force in the morning hours. As the camp alleys are too small for cars or trucks to drive through, they must carry all of their construction materials by hand or with wheelbarrows. When building a new house they will make innumerable trips bringing cement, sand, and blocks, a job not made easy by the 40-degree heat.  Even though building new structures is actually illegal in the camps, new apartments are being built precariously on top of each other in order to keep up with the increasing population of the Palestinians.

At 2pm the children leave school and are now a force to be reckoned with in the camp. At every turn there are boys running around with toy guns, some appearing very real, initially alarming my fellow teachers and me. The young girls sit in groups where they can find enough space to congregate. But whether boy or girl, they will never fail to practice their limited English as we walk by “Hello! My name is Ahmad, Lina, Mohammad, Fatimah…. What is your name?”. Internet cafes will be full with the young adults of the camp chatting with their friends in Arabic and playing war games, until late hours of the night. If you want to get any work done it is best to go early before the sounds of shooting fill the smoky air.

Around 3:30 most Palestinians eat their large meal of the day. Just before that, delectable smells waft from each house. As we walk by, women, preparing the food just inside their homes, beckon us with “Tfafadale” to come in and eat with them, even though we have never met. Such is the generosity of the Palestinians.

At night the camp takes on a completely different feel. Every night in the summer weddings take place, you can tell from the singing, dancing, fireworks and celebratory gunshots into the air. People flock to their roofs to escape the heat and humidity, which is still hovering over the camp even though the sun set hours ago. Men, and sometimes women partake in smoking narguile, or hooka pipes as it is more commonly known in North America. In the camp the new nickname is “Hubbly Bubbly”, which very accurately represents the sound the pipe makes when someone is inhaling the flavored tobacco. At night it is also easier to hear the Call to Prayer, which occurs 5 times throughout the day. The very devout will head to the mosque each time to pray. Initially this would wake us up each night around 3:30, but after a few weeks it began to blend in with the others sounds in the camp and actually became quite soothing.

But not all of the sounds at night are that of celebration or relaxation. At night, the creatures come out. Rats scavenge through the trash bins and scurry away when a flashlight catches sight of them. And even worse, the cockroaches in the camp are large enough that you can actually hear them as they dash and dart under foot. The night is also a time when tempers flare. In a camp with over 20,000 people living in less than one square kilometer, situations escalate quickly, especially in the summer with the oppressive heat and if the power has been off for days. The voices involved in shouting matches easily travel between houses ensuring that the whole neighborhood will know about the situation in no time.

By far, my favorite sights in the camp are the large smiles, which each passerby offers to us as we cross paths. While we may not speak the same language, I know that we are welcome here, that people appreciate that we have come to live with them and tell their stories to the outside world. Most in the outside world have forgotten about them. They have now been here for 61 years, and conditions are deteriorating not getting any better. Even though they are legally termed “refugees” they must continue on with this life that they were born into, it was not a choice for them. And as such, the sounds and sights from the camp are created.

Comments are closed.

Donate Now Through!

Subscribe to our newsletter

CEPAL cookbook for sale
CEPAL cook books for sale: $15 each. Enjoy Palestinian food at home! Email to order